The Mezquita of Cordoba

If any one place in Cordoba reflects the different religions and groups that have inhabited the city through time then this is it. It has been a sacred place for the Romans, Visigoths, Moors and Christians.

The major influence on the building came from the Islamic occupation of Al-Andalus. Abd ah-Raman started construction of the Mosque in 784, when he made Cordoba the capital of Al-Andalus. It would take over two centuries to complete, with many other leaders adding to the original structure.


The West Wall.

We had spent two days marvelling at the structure from the outside. The outer walls feature beautiful Islamic architecture that looks simply magical in the late evening sun. The minaret bell tower can be seen from various points in the city. A great navigational aid when you get lost in the Juderia.


Torre del Alminar.

A visit to the inside of the Mezquita starts from the northern gate. You enter the Patio de los naranjos, the orange courtyard with the typical Islamic water features criss-crossing the yard bringing live to the trees.


In El Patio de los Naranjos.


One of the gates to the Mezquita.

Inside the Mezquita is a labyrinth of marble columns and arches, nearly 900 in total. Each column is unique and was taken from the Roman buildings around Cordoba. In the North-East section you can see the remains of the Visigoth church of St Vincent.


The Columns and Arches inside the Mezquita.


Christianity meets Islam.

The Mezquita was renowned in the Islamic world as being one of the greatest ever built. It was a hugely important pilgrimage site and at one stage was home to the original Koran. When the Spanish Christian kings defeated the Moors to capture Cordoba in 1236, they left the building as it was. It was in later years that they began to make their own modifications. The most notable being the construction of the Villaviciosa chapel in the centre of the building.


Ever seen a Christian Altar in a Mosque?


Stained Glass windows high in the Mezquita.

Today the inside of the Mezquita is an odd mix of Islamic and Christian architecture. The intricate carvings on the arches in the Mihrab. The stained-glass windows high in the ceiling in the centre of the church. There is still an argument raging that the Christian additions to the building have ruined the Mezquita. Still, it is definitely worth a visit.

Monica’s walking tour of Cordoba

Our travels would not be complete without a carefully crafted walking tour created by Monica. Even with so little time to plan she did not disappoint. Our walking tour through the streets of Cordoba would include fiestas, colourful patios, the narrow maze like streets of the Jewish quarter and of course the odd church thrown in as well.

Our trip started as soon as we left the Alcazar. We headed west and soon found our first patio display. The annual patio competition starts in the middle of May so we were a couple of weeks early. Most of the patios were closed. However, one was open near to a local “Cruces de Mayo” celebration. Eager to make a few euro in donations. At least we could sample a little of what visitors later in the month would be able to enjoy throughout the city.


Monica in one of the Patios of Cordoba.

Further up the street was a small courtyard that had been converted into a party zone. A row of market stalls were open and doing a brisk trade. The bar was opening up and the DJ was preparing to start the party again. We soon realised that the locals enjoyed walking from party to party. A pub crawl of “Cruces de Mayo” party areas.


Well earned rest.

After a little refreshment we explored the Juderia area. A fascinating maze of narrow streets, enchanting squares and magnificent buildings, combined with the ever present colour of cordoba in the flower pots that seem to hang from every balcony. The main concentration of tourists was in the “Calle de los Judios”. At the beginning of the street is a statue of Maimonides, the famous Jewish philosopher who was born in Cordoba in the 12th Century.


Statue of Maimonides.

Calle de los Judios is home to the Synagogue. This is a popular tourist destination but was closed to visitors when we arrived. This street is also famous for its jewellery and Silversmiths. A popular one seemed to be across the road from the Synagogue. Although it appeared to me that the tourists were more interested in the magnificent quadrangle courtyard than the shops that surrounded it.


Nice shopping area.

Further along the street and there is a chilling reminder of the dark past of Cordoba. A project called “Con Nombre Proprio” displays a list of names and dates. Most have the word “Quemado” next to the date. It is a list of people who were burned as a sentence for god knows what crimes they were supposed to have committed. The inquisition in Cordoba between 1483 and 1731 carried out burnings either “quemado en persona o estatua”.

Wandering the streets of Cordoba and you can’t help but notice amongst the balconies of flowers, the various signs in tribute to the poet Miguel Hernandez. The signs celebrate what would have been his 100th year. My favourite verse being “te besaré con seda me mirarás con rosas”. “I will kiss you with silk. You will look at me with roses”.


Another Church, Another fiesta.

Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos

This 8th century fortress is one of the major tourist attractions of Cordoba. Our tour started by having a nosey at the roman mosaics that have been attached to the walls. These impressive works of art were recovered from various locations throughout the city.


Poseidon Mosiac.

Later we climbed the Torre de los Leones for the magnificent views over the city. The narrow staircase can be a bit tricky to navigate, especially going down when you are forced on the inside with practically no step to place your feet on. Patience is a virtue and the scenery is well worth it.

View from the tower.

The best thing about the Alcazar without doubt are the glorious gardens. The Moors certainly knew how to make the most of any water lying about. The reflections from the ponds, the different scents in the air and the vivid colours make exploring the gardens a treat.


In the Gardens.


Monica inspects the rose.


Beautiful ponds in the Gardens.

The Alcazar is famous for the reign of Ferdinand and Isabella. It was here that they learned of Christopher Columbus plans to find a short cut to India. Many people claim that it was here in Cordoba where Columbus received his royal commission for his voyage. However, just like his birth place, this is disputed.


Columbus asks the Spanish Monarchs for some cash.


Looking back to the Alcazar.

San Isidro 2010

Viva San Isidro! This years pilgrimage to the caves took place on a Saturday. No need to book a holiday. No work the following morning. Perfect timing! Except Nerja is a tourist resort and most people depend on those pesky tourists. Being pesky tourists, they insist on arriving on a Saturday. San Isidro or not. Maybe that was why it seemed a little quieter this year.


San Isidro departs for the caves.


The italian Job. Fabi, Monica, Deny,Ettore and Marcello.


Francesco says Ciao!

San Isidro is a great occassion for seeing people that you haven't seen for ages. A similar day to what Whit Friday used to be until the drunks ruined it.


Sandra in disfrace! Whoops I mean wearing a traditional Flamenco Dress.

As well as the spectacular sevillano style dresses that are worn by the women, San Isidro is renowned for the hospitality of the people. We met up with Sandra who was walking behind the caroza belonging to the Sound Club. Jose quickly offered us a chilled beer. Just the tonic for another hot sunny San Isidro day.


Party at the caves.

We arrived at the caves and found a spot for lunch. Then it was party time. There are numerous bars, live music and of course the famous disco zone to enjoy at the caves. San Isidro typically marks the start of the summer season in Nerja. With temperatures soaring we headed to the disco zone to enjoy the party.


Lazing about in the sun.


Bailar!