The Mezquita of Cordoba

If any one place in Cordoba reflects the different religions and groups that have inhabited the city through time then this is it. It has been a sacred place for the Romans, Visigoths, Moors and Christians.

The major influence on the building came from the Islamic occupation of Al-Andalus. Abd ah-Raman started construction of the Mosque in 784, when he made Cordoba the capital of Al-Andalus. It would take over two centuries to complete, with many other leaders adding to the original structure.


The West Wall.

We had spent two days marvelling at the structure from the outside. The outer walls feature beautiful Islamic architecture that looks simply magical in the late evening sun. The minaret bell tower can be seen from various points in the city. A great navigational aid when you get lost in the Juderia.


Torre del Alminar.

A visit to the inside of the Mezquita starts from the northern gate. You enter the Patio de los naranjos, the orange courtyard with the typical Islamic water features criss-crossing the yard bringing live to the trees.


In El Patio de los Naranjos.


One of the gates to the Mezquita.

Inside the Mezquita is a labyrinth of marble columns and arches, nearly 900 in total. Each column is unique and was taken from the Roman buildings around Cordoba. In the North-East section you can see the remains of the Visigoth church of St Vincent.


The Columns and Arches inside the Mezquita.


Christianity meets Islam.

The Mezquita was renowned in the Islamic world as being one of the greatest ever built. It was a hugely important pilgrimage site and at one stage was home to the original Koran. When the Spanish Christian kings defeated the Moors to capture Cordoba in 1236, they left the building as it was. It was in later years that they began to make their own modifications. The most notable being the construction of the Villaviciosa chapel in the centre of the building.


Ever seen a Christian Altar in a Mosque?


Stained Glass windows high in the Mezquita.

Today the inside of the Mezquita is an odd mix of Islamic and Christian architecture. The intricate carvings on the arches in the Mihrab. The stained-glass windows high in the ceiling in the centre of the church. There is still an argument raging that the Christian additions to the building have ruined the Mezquita. Still, it is definitely worth a visit.

Monica’s walking tour of Cordoba

Our travels would not be complete without a carefully crafted walking tour created by Monica. Even with so little time to plan she did not disappoint. Our walking tour through the streets of Cordoba would include fiestas, colourful patios, the narrow maze like streets of the Jewish quarter and of course the odd church thrown in as well.

Our trip started as soon as we left the Alcazar. We headed west and soon found our first patio display. The annual patio competition starts in the middle of May so we were a couple of weeks early. Most of the patios were closed. However, one was open near to a local “Cruces de Mayo” celebration. Eager to make a few euro in donations. At least we could sample a little of what visitors later in the month would be able to enjoy throughout the city.


Monica in one of the Patios of Cordoba.

Further up the street was a small courtyard that had been converted into a party zone. A row of market stalls were open and doing a brisk trade. The bar was opening up and the DJ was preparing to start the party again. We soon realised that the locals enjoyed walking from party to party. A pub crawl of “Cruces de Mayo” party areas.


Well earned rest.

After a little refreshment we explored the Juderia area. A fascinating maze of narrow streets, enchanting squares and magnificent buildings, combined with the ever present colour of cordoba in the flower pots that seem to hang from every balcony. The main concentration of tourists was in the “Calle de los Judios”. At the beginning of the street is a statue of Maimonides, the famous Jewish philosopher who was born in Cordoba in the 12th Century.


Statue of Maimonides.

Calle de los Judios is home to the Synagogue. This is a popular tourist destination but was closed to visitors when we arrived. This street is also famous for its jewellery and Silversmiths. A popular one seemed to be across the road from the Synagogue. Although it appeared to me that the tourists were more interested in the magnificent quadrangle courtyard than the shops that surrounded it.


Nice shopping area.

Further along the street and there is a chilling reminder of the dark past of Cordoba. A project called “Con Nombre Proprio” displays a list of names and dates. Most have the word “Quemado” next to the date. It is a list of people who were burned as a sentence for god knows what crimes they were supposed to have committed. The inquisition in Cordoba between 1483 and 1731 carried out burnings either “quemado en persona o estatua”.

Wandering the streets of Cordoba and you can’t help but notice amongst the balconies of flowers, the various signs in tribute to the poet Miguel Hernandez. The signs celebrate what would have been his 100th year. My favourite verse being “te besaré con seda me mirarás con rosas”. “I will kiss you with silk. You will look at me with roses”.


Another Church, Another fiesta.

Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos

This 8th century fortress is one of the major tourist attractions of Cordoba. Our tour started by having a nosey at the roman mosaics that have been attached to the walls. These impressive works of art were recovered from various locations throughout the city.


Poseidon Mosiac.

Later we climbed the Torre de los Leones for the magnificent views over the city. The narrow staircase can be a bit tricky to navigate, especially going down when you are forced on the inside with practically no step to place your feet on. Patience is a virtue and the scenery is well worth it.

View from the tower.

The best thing about the Alcazar without doubt are the glorious gardens. The Moors certainly knew how to make the most of any water lying about. The reflections from the ponds, the different scents in the air and the vivid colours make exploring the gardens a treat.


In the Gardens.


Monica inspects the rose.


Beautiful ponds in the Gardens.

The Alcazar is famous for the reign of Ferdinand and Isabella. It was here that they learned of Christopher Columbus plans to find a short cut to India. Many people claim that it was here in Cordoba where Columbus received his royal commission for his voyage. However, just like his birth place, this is disputed.


Columbus asks the Spanish Monarchs for some cash.


Looking back to the Alcazar.

San Isidro 2010

Viva San Isidro! This years pilgrimage to the caves took place on a Saturday. No need to book a holiday. No work the following morning. Perfect timing! Except Nerja is a tourist resort and most people depend on those pesky tourists. Being pesky tourists, they insist on arriving on a Saturday. San Isidro or not. Maybe that was why it seemed a little quieter this year.


San Isidro departs for the caves.


The italian Job. Fabi, Monica, Deny,Ettore and Marcello.


Francesco says Ciao!

San Isidro is a great occassion for seeing people that you haven't seen for ages. A similar day to what Whit Friday used to be until the drunks ruined it.


Sandra in disfrace! Whoops I mean wearing a traditional Flamenco Dress.

As well as the spectacular sevillano style dresses that are worn by the women, San Isidro is renowned for the hospitality of the people. We met up with Sandra who was walking behind the caroza belonging to the Sound Club. Jose quickly offered us a chilled beer. Just the tonic for another hot sunny San Isidro day.


Party at the caves.

We arrived at the caves and found a spot for lunch. Then it was party time. There are numerous bars, live music and of course the famous disco zone to enjoy at the caves. San Isidro typically marks the start of the summer season in Nerja. With temperatures soaring we headed to the disco zone to enjoy the party.


Lazing about in the sun.


Bailar!

The Flowers of Cordoba

A Patio in Cordoba.


Flowers in the streets.


Yellow Rose.


One of the displays ready for the competition.


Red Rose.

Another jewel in the Andalusian crown – Cordoba

The traditional “day of the worker” which we know as May day, landed on a Saturday this year. Not the best day for a holiday if you work in the travel industry in Nerja. However, it did give Monica a chance to take the holiday on the Monday. Which meant we could plan a long weekend break away to Cordoba.

Cordoba is just over a two hour journey away from Nerja. So as the last guest picked up the keys we set-off on our last minute getaway. We had nothing booked and it was a holiday weekend. More so in Cordoba as it was the “Fiesta de las Cruces”, which is a highlight of the festival calendar in Cordoba. Monica was busy planning the itinerary as I drove up the autovia.

Cordoba is a beautiful city that has been influenced by the Romans, Moors and the catholic kings. It sits on the bend of the Guadalquivir River. An impressive roman bridge creates a picturesque entrance to the city’s prized tourist attraction, the Mezquita. I took a wrong turning looking for a parking place and ended up in the heart of the city’s famed Juderia quarter. A surreal experience as the pedestrians had priority over the cars, the streets so narrow that I was worried about scratching the sides of my tiny Ford Fiesta. We had to follow a horse and carriage to navigate the meandering streets as Tom Tom had long since given up on finding an exit.

We eventually found an underground parking garage and joined the groups of people enjoying the fiesta in the street. The place was filled with a party atmosphere. It was clear that the “Cruces de Mayo” festival was a bigger party event than it was in Nerja. We soon reached Plaza de las Tendillas that was home to one of the flower crosses. A stage was set-up ready for the evening’s entertainment. A sizeable crowd had already assembled. Finding a room for the night was going to be a challenge.

After a quick visit to the tourist information centre we headed for the hotel street which was San Fernando. I was already thinking that we wouldn’t find anywhere for the night. Monica’s phone calls earlier in the day had been fruitless. It seemed like the whole city was fully booked. The first few hotels we came across were full. We had success at the hostel “La Fuente”. There was an apartment available for 70 euros a night. Monica wasn’t happy with the price but I gratefully accepted the room. Just in time as it turned out as another couple came in to enquire about available rooms. We had taken the last one.


Cruces del mayo.

Later in the evening we headed out to find a place to eat. The cruces de mayo festival was in full swing. A procession was just about to start from the church down the street. We managed to get in front of it and walked down a side street which ended at Plaza del Potro. A delightful square where Cervantes once stayed. A plaque on a wall indicates that he included this place in one of his works. A tree lined street is filled with cafe bars and leads to the banks of the Guadalquivir.


Plaza del Potro.


The Guadalquivir.

We decided to walk towards the historic centre of the city and find a place to eat in one of the famed patios. We walked past the Mezquita and wandered through the narrow streets. Most of the patios were already prepared for the upcoming festival of flowers. We found a nice place in Calle de los deanes for dinner. We were drawn in not only by the beautiful patio, but the menu del dia was a bargin at 8.50 Euros. We decided to try the local delicacy of Flamenquin, pieces of ham and pork rolled in breadcrumbs and fried.

After an enjoyable meal we headed back along the river for a nightcap. We had spotted a rooftop bar that had excellent views over the river. It was a bit pricey but we enjoyed the cool evening air sipping our vino tinto looking out at the starry night.


A relaxing night cap.

Election fever grips the kids

The May elections with its presidential style debates and the prospect of a hung parliament had many people excited over the campaign. You would think the only exciting prospect for the kids was an extra day off from school. However, Sophie and Jessica had taken more of an interest.


Sophie and Jess on a mission.

So on an unusually sunny day in Carrbrook the girls wanted to a little canvassing during our bike ride around the village. Well, they wanted to find out what Auntie Lyn thought of the party leaders. After receiving some welcome refreshments the girls decided to test the political water.


Sophie and Jess make their first opinion poll.

“That Brown will make me work until I’m 95!” exclaimed Sophie after telling Lyn she couldn’t possibly vote for him.

“And I’ll have to work until I’m 99!” Jessica added.

“Are you going to vote for Pudding Face?” Sophie had obviously been hearing my mum’s political views.

The excitement soon faded for Sophie but little Jess was still excited on the day of polling. She went with my Mum and Dad to her school to cast their vote. She witnessed them collect their ballot paper. Go into a little booth and make their choice. Then they posted it into the box. All the while little Jess was watching transfixed in silence. As they left the school Jess couldn’t keep quiet any longer.
“Is that it? How boring!”

El Málaga un equipo de primera!

Malaga managed to secure their place in the top flight of Spanish football with a well deserved point against Real Madrid.

The unlikely draw looked on the cards when Duda scored early in the first half. Malaga took the 1-0 lead into the half time break. Surely Real Madrid would realize that their slim chance of winning La Liga was gone with Barca comfortably beating Valladolid 2-0 at Camp Nou. Maybe the unbelievable was going to happen.

Real Madrid refused to roll over and Van de Vart equalised early in the second half. It was then backs to the wall and some heroic goalkeeping that kept Malaga alive with a point. When news came through that Valencia had taken the lead against Tenerife, the party started for Malaga.

The last gasp salvation was best summed up by the text received from Antonio. "Dios exite viva en Malaga."

Is it the drop for Malaga?

The final round of matches in la liga will take place this weekend. Malaga find themselves in the dreaded drop zone. One final game to save themselves. The good news is that they are at home and will find inspiration from the hinchas of la rosaleda. The bad news is that they are playing Real Madrid.

That’s that then! You might think so, but the situation is more complicated than that. How can a team that is in the bottom three lose and still be safe? Welcome to the complications of “la Liga”!

The first thing that strikes you when you look at the table is that Malaga’s goal difference is better than the two teams above them, Racing and Valladolid. But La Liga doesn’t use goal difference to separate clubs level on points. They use their own “criterios de desempate”. Basically, a mini-league formed by the clubs level on points. Why Malaga is in the drop zone is too complicated for my head to fathom. However, the final day looks like this for Malaga.

If Malaga beat Real Madrid they are safe regardless of other results.

If Malaga draw against Real Madrid then two outcomes will save them. 1) Two clubs from Tenerife, Racing and Valladolid must lose. 2) Racing and Tenerife draw and Valladolid lose.

If Malaga lose against Real Madrid then Racing, Tenerife and Valladolid must lose. Oh, and Xerez must not win.

So the worst case scenario is that Real Madrid thump Malaga and to cap it off Ronaldo will probably score a hatful. Then all attention will be focused at other games around the country. Barcelona surely must beat Valladolid to win the title. Let’s hope Valencia don’t start their holidays early and beat Tenerife. The tricky game is Racing v Sporting. Valladolid have already made noises that they fear that Sporting will not put up any resistance by fielding a weakened side. Xerez are away at Osasuna.

Unfortunately, it is all pointing to Malaga dropping into la segunda again. A point against Real Madrid is a must to save themselves.

Skirting the Penon de los Castillejos

2010 has been a poor year for walking. The weather has been truly awful. However, with the skies clear of rain we headed up the Rio de la Miel to have a walk around the Penon. The weather wasn't a problem today. But it had been up to mischieve earlier on.

Just above the small hamlet of el nacimiento the road has been swept away by the storms. We ditched the car and continued on foot. This only added an extra 30 minutes to the walk.


No way past


View from the track

It is an easy walk with some spectacular views. The only downside is that it ends abbruptly at an old power generator site and you have to double back on yourself. Maybe next time we return we will feel energetic enough to actually scale the Penon. Apparently it's an arduous task but do-able.



Panaorama shot


Sierra Nevada in background.


End of the track.