After the most basic of breakfasts at the hotel it was off in search of the tourist information office. This was a short 5 minute walk from the hotel judging by the guide. However it took more like 20 minutes, not because of the distance but more due to the problems associated with being a pedestrian in Bangkok. Basically, you are not encouraged to walk anywhere. The first problem is you attract the attention of the taxi cabs and tuk tuk drivers. A couple of blasts of the horn followed by a "Halooo! Where you goinnnggg" as the driver pulls over, oblivious to any traffic behind him or our continued "No Thanks we are walking".
The next problem is trying to cross the road. Bangkok doesn’t do single lane roads. There at least 3 lanes if not more, filled with traffic weaving in and out of the lanes to get any 0.01 second advantage that a skilled formula one driver would be proud of. Crossing points? You can largely forget about these. It took us 10 minutes to cross one stretch. A mind boggling 8 lanes of traffic to cross with only a traffic island in the middle to shield us from the raging traffic, whose drivers don’t appear to know how to apply the brakes. Not one crossing point, subway or any other visible means of getting to the other side except for a high risk game of frogger.
Where's the crossing?
If you are lucky enough to find a zebra crossing, mostly it comes without the helpful traffic lights that stop the traffic. Patiently standing by waiting for them to stop for you does not work. A leap of faith is required as you jump on to the crossing whenever there is a millimetre of a break between the traffic. You then discover that the vehicles heading directly for you do indeed have brakes but the seasoned driver will simply switch lanes and cut across you without missing a rev. Each step forward requires real nerve and what starts with a first tentative step finishes with a sprint finish that would beat Linford Christie.
A crossing but will it stop the traffic?
With all nerves shot to pieces we headed for the shelter of the tourist information office. A huge impressive building filled with Thai employees eager to serve. It seems they relish the chance to practice their English. We were only to pleased to help although motivated more by being safely away from the Bangkok traffic than any sense of helping with the staffs learning. Armed with several guides and a map of Bangkok it was time to brave the streets once again.
Walking to our first attraction we passed by the National Museum of Bangkok. Here we met the first helpful soul. He informed us that the museum was closed today. No problem, we are heading for the Grand Palace. 30 Metres further down and we are stopped by the second helpful soul. He too informs us that the museum is shut and enquires where we are going. He then tells us that we wouldn’t be allowed into the Grand Palace as we were wearing shorts and anyway it is closed until this afternoon. We then chatted with him for the next 10 minutes as he took our map and marked several temples where we could visit and see the various Buddha’s, most of them for free.
Monument at North end of Sanam Luang.
I have to admit that at first I was wary. The Lonely Planet guide even warns you about the dangers of speaking to strangers and highlights the one classic sign of a con, being told that the place you are going to visit is closed. However, this guy was obviously employed by the museum (he was wearing his employee badge) and was being nothing but helpful and probably enjoying the chance to practice is English. No money was asked for. No sales pitch about visiting a tailor or a guided city tour by tuk tuk. In fact he was the embodiment of the happy, smiling Thai who is visibly proud of his country’s heritage and landmarks and wanted to ensure that us tourists saw as many of them as was possible.
Having said goodbye to our helpful friend we changed our plans and headed for the Wats (Thai for Temple) that had been marked on our maps to see the different Buddha’s. We would return to see the Grand Palace properly dressed later this afternoon.
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