Cabiria, Piazza Santo Spirito

After crossing the Ponte Vecchio we decided to look for a bar to enjoy an aperitif before dinner. We figured that it might be cheaper on the other side of the river. We were soon in for a rude awakening.

You don’t see many people enjoying a beer in Florence. Most cafe bars have terraces on the front where people huddle up close to the patio heater to keep warm. Many people are enjoying a coffee or a glass of wine. Not many seem to enjoy an evening pint. And now I know why. Mamma mia que caro!

We found a nice looking bar on Piazza Santo Spirito called “Cabiria”. The outside terrace was busy despite the cold evening night. Inside is vibrant and the DJ had the music a tad too high for the early evening. The decorhas a movie theme. Many old photos displayed on the walls, including what looks like the famous lizard monster we have seen a lot of in the “ranking” list on “Striscia la Notizia”, a popular show in Italy.


Inside Cabiria.

We ordered two glasses of beer and we shocked to discover the cost. 5 Euros for a glass of beer! No wonder Italy doesn’t have a binge drinking culture. Shell Shocked, we retreated to the terrace to saviour our expensive brew. I think we will stick to wine in future.


How Much!

Florence in the rain

It had rained all day. We checked into our hotel which was situated on the limits of the city where tourists are allowed to drive. It was only a 10 minute walk to the centre, but in the rain and darkening skies. Still, nothing was going to stop me enjoying the sights of the city for the first time.

We braved the rain soaked streets and arrived at the Piazza di Santa Croce. At one end the impressive exterior of the church of the same name. A few things would become apparent during our stay in Florence. All the buildings are a delight to see. All the attractions would be expensive to visit. 6 Euros to enter a church? No thanks!


Santa Croce Church.


Piazza di Santa Croce.

We crossed the uneven Piazza cursing as the odd misplaced foot went into a puddle. It isn’t possible to watch where you put your feet in Florence. There is too much to see! All thoughts of the rain, cold and wet feet soon vanished as we arrived at the Piazza della Signoria. The most beautiful square I have ever seen in my life!


My first view of the Piazza della Signoria.

The square is dominated by the Palazzo Vecchio, which doubles as a Museum and the Town Hall. In front of the palace is the Neptune Fountain. An amazing work of art. Sculptures stand in a line outside the palace. Under the cover of the Loggia are dozens more. It is an incredible sight. I always thought that Florence would be the highlight of our trip. The city I wanted to see most. I wasn’t disappointed.


Palazzo Vecchio.


Ponte Vecchio.

Festa della Salute

Another new festival for me to witness in Venice, the Festa della Salute. This is celebrated on the 21st November, but the crowds begin to gather the day before. Lucky for us as we were leaving for Florence on the 21st!


View of the Church from Giudecca.

The Festa della Salute is similar to the Festa della Redentore held in Giudecca in July. Both festivals celebrate the end of the deadly plague that gripped Venice in the late 16th century. Also, a temporary bridge is built for each occasion. This time, a bridge is built over the Grand Canal.


View of Santa Maria della Salute from the temporary bridge.

Although the Festival is dominated by religious ceremonies in the church dedicated to the day, there is a party atmosphere outside. Many stalls line the routes near to the church selling sweets, cakes and other delicacies. You cannot move for kids who clutch on to a dazzling array of helium balloons, much to the delight of the vendors who you see with ear to ear smiles.


Carnival spirit in the streets.

The church of Santa Maria della Salute stands on the tip of the Dorsoduro sestiere at the end of the Grand Canal. Its prominent position makes it one of the most photographed churches in Venice, popular shots taken from the Academia bridge and from St Marks square.


Inside the church.

Inside the church is a mass of people. The flashes of photos being snapped by tourists of every angle of the church (at least turn off your flash FFS!) whilst the locals attempt to get closer to the altar. The altar is an impressive sculpture that depicts Venice kneeling before the Madonna and child, as the plague (in the form of an old hag) is chased away from the city. It also includes the famous “dark” byzantine icon of the Madonna and Child.


The altar.

After listening to the service it is the chance to get behind the altar and see the treasures held there. Apparently it is one of the very few times you are allowed to visit this area of the church. Here you can see works of art from Titian and my favourite Tintoretto. You are not allowed to take photos of these works (although it didn’t seem to stop a few people) so I had to be content with a postcard of the “Marriage at Cana”. If you ever get the opportunity to visit Venice in late November, do not miss your chance to see this in person.

Treviso

A Day trip to Treviso.


Piazza dei Signori


Our tour guide, Honey.


Honey, Giuly and Monica.


Honey on the Lion outside the Duomo.

Acqua Alta!

If you are thinking of visiting Venice in Winter you need to remember to pack your wellies. Acqua Alta!


On the fondamenta, Giudecca.


Naviagting the streets during Acqua Alta.

The Guggenheim Collection

A special offer was on for all the Venetians. Free entry into the Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, the former home of Peggy Guggenheim and now a museum that shows her personal collection. A chance for me to explore modern art and see if I can fathom it!


The Peggy Guggenheim Museum.

Amongst the collection are a few paintings from Picasso. Having visited the Picasso museum in Malaga I must confess to not understanding what all the fuss is about. But then I’m ignorant in all things arty but I’m willing to learn! “On the Beach” is a strange work! One painting that really stood out for me was “Materia” by Umberto Boccioni.


Materia (1912) Oil on canvas.



Sculpture at the Grand Canal side.


Scary sculpture in the gardens.


Outside in the Garden.

Venice

St Marks is always a special place, regardless of the season, or the time of day. In winter it is less crowded. Bloody freezing but worth it to see scenes such as this.


St Marks Square at night.

Ponte dei Pugni

One of my favourite bridges in Venice. It doesn't look much but it is steeped in history. This is the scene of many a punch up between rival gangs of the city. Four footprints on the bridge indicate the corners used by the boxers. The idea was that each side were represented by their two champions. Each taking a corner and then it was a free for all punch up. The watching crowd normally getting sucked into the action.

Spritz.

The famous apertif of Veneto taken in a cracking little bar somewhere near Rialto. Have a wander down one of the side streets and you might find it!

The View from Academia bridge.

Monza

An overnight stop in Monza was planned to visit Monica’s Aunt Giusi, and family. They live in the beautiful district of Vedano al Lambro. A stone’s throw away from the famous race track.

After lunch it was time to open up the old photo albums. Aunt Giusi is a great story teller. Even with my limited Italian it is hard not to laugh along when she recalls incidents from the past. One such story was how she managed to get to the VIP seats at the Duomo in Milan for the Christmas Mass service.


Aunt Giusi the story teller.

All the big civic leaders were there. Security was tight. There wasn’t any space available. People were being turned away. Aunt Giusi walked boldly up to the security guards and said
“This is my husband, the great Engineer Bavestrello, and our seats are over there”, pointing to four empty seats at the front of the church.

The security guards let them through without protest but stopped the two friends that were with them. As quick as a flash Giusi said
“And these are my bodyguards!”.
They were then swiftly escorted to the front row, and ended up being seated next to the Mayor of Milan!

The great engineer Federico Bavestrello could also tell a story. They were visiting a friend at the Monza race track. He was offering them a spin around the track in his Ferrari. So after Federico, it was Aunt Giusi’s turn.

“No Way!”, she had a fear of fast cars, especially after seeing Federico being whizzed around the track.

“Just sit inside so I can take a picture”. Who wouldn’t want their picture taken in a Ferrari? She eased herself into the passenger seat.

“The picture will look better if you put the seat belt on”. No sooner had she clipped in the safety harness the Ferrari sped off down the pit lane. The shrieks from Aunt Giusi drowning out the roar of the engine!

Driving Tour of Italy

Alas, no touring around South East Asia this year. Instead the annual pilgrimage to Venice with a difference. We did it by car! It would probably cost more than the flights but what the hell!

Monica got behind the wheel for the first time in two years to share the load. 30 minutes out from Nerja and she informs me that she has forgotten to take her driving licence. Hopefully, there will be no police checks at the borders!


Monica behind the wheel.

The first leg of the journey was a nine hour drive to Tarragona. You soon realise what a vast country Spain is on this trip. We hadn't made it across the Spanish border and we are almost half way to Venice.

The next day we set off for Monza. Tom Tom said it was a nine and a half hour drive. I did the first shift to the border and then attempted to sleep all the way through France.


The best way to see France.

The only problem Monica had on the roads were the toll booths in France. As we approached panic would descend.
"Which Lane!"
"Any with the green light" I would reply.
Monica would continue to head for a booth with a big red cross hanging over it.
"No! Left, Left Left!!!".
Still, Monica refused to turn the wheel until the last possible moment.


"Which Lane!!!!"

The toll charges are a disgrace. From start to finish it cost close to 120 Euros. And there is no way to avoid these unless you want to add an extra 24 hours to your road trip. The French make things worse. Instead of collecting a ticket and paying when you leave the motorway, the French like to stop you every two minutes. 1.50 Euros here, 2.50 Euros there and so on and so on.

Not content with the tolls, the French also charge extortionate prices for petrol. I thought 1.15 Euros per litre was bad enough in Spain. I couldn't believe the price across the border. 1.50! Make sure you fill up before leaving Spain. The closer you are to the French border you are in Italy, the more expensive the petrol is. The average price in Italy is around 1.34. Expect to pay 1.40 close to the border though.

Bar Lease for Sale - Nerja, Málaga

Lease for Cafe Bar in Nerja, Málaga for Sale. The bar is situated on Burriana Beach, one of the busiest beaches in the area throughout the year. It is a popular location for tourists, the ex-pat community and Spanish residents.



The Cafe bar has a private terrace with space for eight tables. The entire interior has been recently refurbished, including the bar area, kitchen and all appliances.



The Bar lease is for sale at €70,000. The monthly rental of the premises is €1,350 per month (IVA included). For more information please contact me via the “comments” section. All comments will be private and will not be published.