Midnight Mass

One of the questions asked of me when in Venice was “How do you celebrate Christmas in England?”. In particular, what is the tradition on Christmas Eve and the seeing in of Christmas day? Well, for me back in England it was always an excuse to go and get drunk down Stalybridge (Ashton in the older days) and get ripped off in each pub as they usually charged you an entry fee for the privilege. Things here are quiet different. At midnight I found myself at church.

After an amazing dinner with at least 7 courses, we went to the church of San Gerado in Sacca Fisola for midnight mass. I’m not a religious person at all but enjoy seeing the inside of churches, especially in Venice, so this was a new one to add to the list. The décor inside was quite modern and I suspect that this is quiet a new church. The service was packed out and many late arrivals found the place standing room only.


San Gerado's.

Giustina’s husband Germano was a member of the church choir that sang a number of carols accompanied by the organ and an electric guitar. A number of members of the choir would then go to the pulpit at the front to address the congregation, including Germano. I have no idea what he said or for that matter what was said during the entire service. However I did feel a close sense of community, especially towards the end where everyone turns around to greet each other, friend or stranger. It was certainly experience quiet different and probably a lot more rewarding than a night out in Stalybridge.

Christmas Eve at Sacca Fisola

My first Venetian Christmas. It all kicks off on Christmas Eve. A huge dinner with every type of fish possible being served up. We went to Giustina’s house, Roberto’s sister, in Sacca Fisola, which is at the opposite end of Guidecca. Let the eating commence!


Ready for Dinner.


Let the eating commence.


Sisters sharing a joke.

Presents are handed out before heading to midnight mass. Maria Cristina received a smart tricycle from Papá Noel. The smartest engineering minds on Sacca Fisola got on the job. Well, Marcello, Michele and Andrea. Twenty minutes later and Cristina was whizzing up and down the hall.


Andrea gets to grips with the assembly project.


Mission completed.

Spritz

The perfect Venetian aperitif.


First, place a slice of lemon in a glass (no ice). Then select your flavour. For bitter you add Campari. A sweeter taste then use Aperol. A halfway house is the local spirit Select.


Then add dry white wine. If your feeling posh you can use prosecco.


Finally, add sparkling water and enjoy.

Getting Ready for Christmas

Antonella, Papá and Monica.


Bah Humbug!


Dressing up.


Merry Christmas!

Augusto wins another Christmas raffle.


Papá Noel!

Presepio and the new bridge

It wouldn’t be Christmas without the school nativity play. In Spain the nativity scene, “Belen”, is proudly displayed in the town. In Italy it is called the “Presepio” and is a normal Christmas decoration in all Italian households. In Venice, there was a display of great “Presepios”. The best was the model that placed the birth of Jesus Christ in old Venice.

In this model, the Rialto Bridge and the Campanile can be seen in the background. People in the street are seen wearing the traditional Venetian carnival mask. The famous gondola also appears in the model, along with Venetian ship builders working in the docks. Other traditional Venetian crafts are displayed and Roberto kindly explained each of them to me.


A Venetian Presepio.


Inside a Carnival Mask Shop.

We headed back to Piazzale Roma to catch the Vaporetto back home. On this visit we were able to use the newest bridge in Venice, Ponte di Calatrava. This is the infamous fourth bridge over the Grand Canal. They have finally opened it and I out-sprinted Monica to ensure that I was the first to cross it!

The bridge is named after the Spanish Architect Santiago Calatrava and has been beset with problems and critics. Problems with the design (amazingly they forgot to add wheelchair access so it breaks the Italian disability laws), construction (the footings were too heavy and the fondamenta could not support the weight), and costs (well over budget and seen as a waste of money by most Venetians). It finally opened (well behind schedule) on September 11, 2008.


Ponte di Calatrava at night.

The bridge looks quite nice in the dark Venetian night. A modern mixture of steel and glass that twists over the canal connecting the Railway station to the bus terminal. Standing on the bridge you do feel movement as it vibrates due to the pedestrians walking over it, even though there were only a few people about. What will it be like in summer when the place is packed?


On the bridge (I was First!).

Murano

Murano is a “little Venice” about a mile north of Venice. Like Venice, it is a group of islands that are connected by bridges to make the Murano Commune. Murano is famous for its glass production. Hundreds of tourist shops in Venice sell the beautiful coloured sculptures. There were a series of exhibitions and displays based in Murano during December and January. Today was the chance to see the glass being produced at one of the famous factories.

We took the vaporetto and arrived in Murano in the late afternoon sun to be greeted by the Colonna at the Piazza and an exhibit named “Osanna”, a glass fusing artwork painted by enamels and gold. Walking along the fondamenta you can see old palaces that once were the homes of wealthy Venetians, who liked to holiday here during the 15th century.


The Colonna.


Old Palace in Murano.

Glassmakers from Venice were forced to move to Murano in the late 13th century due to the risk of fire. However that is all I learnt about the glass production in Murano. We went to the factory that was advertised as having an open day to be told that it had been postponed until January. Instead we had a walk around to see the sights of Murano.


View of the Grand Canal, Murano.


Santa Maria e San Donato.


The Campanile.

A Stroll around San Marco

It was a beautiful sunny day in Venice. Still bloody freezing cold but not to worry. This morning we would have a stroll around the San Marco area and have a look inside the basilica. Amazingly, after numerous visits to Venice I had still not seen the inside.

The streets of Venice were surprisingly quiet. It is normally quiet when we visit in winter but I expected more people to be around during Christmas week. Another thing that amazes me about the place is that I am sure that I have walked down the same streets many times in the past but it is still like discovering a new place.

When in Venice it is important to look up. There are many beautiful sights up high above. The rooftops on Venetian houses are wonderful. Many have beautifully tended patios that must command stunning views over the city. The attention to detail on the statues that adorn the church roofs makes it compulsory to look up too. Today’s treat was the church of Santa Maria del Giglio. Magnificent carved figures stand up on high.


Angel on top of Santa Maria del Giglio.


Roof top with a view.

Without doubt St Mark’s square is the most famous of all areas in Venice. Again, the sheer beauty of the place does not fail to impress you no matter how many times you see it. I’m sure that in 20 years time I’ll see something for the first time or Roberto will tell me another fact about the place relating to the glory years of the Venetian Republic. So I make no apologies for taking photos of the place every time I go!


In St Marks square.

Restoration work must be an ongoing project in Venice. Every visit and you can see some scaffolding up at one of the masterpieces in San Marco. This time there was a bit of work happening at the side of the Basilica. Also, unfortunate first time visitors to Venice will have to come back to see the famous bridge of sighs. You can’t see any of it due to restoration work.

The insides of the Basilica are just as impressive as the outside. The sheer scale of the place is amazing. Everywhere you look is an impressive piece of artwork that tells its own unique story. It would be impossible to see everything in one visit. We only had a short time inside and couldn’t go to see the famous Pala d’Oro, the most famous of all the treasures in the Basilica. That will wait for next time. Roberto says that this church is the best in the world. It’s certainly the best I have ever seen and doubt that any other would come close to matching it.


The Basilica.

The Basilica is where the body of San Marco rests. How it came to be in the Basilica is a remarkable story. A church of this magnitude had to be in praise of a worthy saint. Two Venetian merchants took it upon themselves to retrieve the body of San Marco from Alexandria in Egypt during the 9th century. To avoid capture on returning to Venice they covered the body with pork meat so that the Muslim inspectors would not search it. The body of San Marco was laid to rest in the crypt in 1094. I can’t wait until my next visit when I am sure to learn more fascinating tales of history relating to the Basilica.


Obligatory photo of the Lion at St Mark's.

Pordenone

After the game we went to the main town in the province, Pordenone. The town was fully geared-up for Christmas and a festive market was in full swing. A stage was set with a school choir and orchestra playing to the packed crowd. It was too cold to hang around and watch so we went on to explore the rest of the town.


Christmas in Pordenone.

Like most of the towns I have visited in Northern Italy, Pordenone has a medieval feel to it. It was once part of the Venetian republic, which acquired it in the 16th century. In one place you can see the old city walls that used to defend the town. There is a wonderful street, Corso Vittorio Emanuele that is lined with shops housed in beautiful old buildings. At the end of the street is a beautiful cobbled square, surrounded by magnificent buildings like the church, the campanile and the Palazzo Ricchieri, which is now the towns art museum.


Palazzo Ricchieri.


Monica, Andrea and Antonella in the Square.

After the pleasant stroll around the town there was time for the a little shopping in the market area. Thanks to my new coat, the Cipolata-Vianello family had being calling me “Lord Dean”. Apparently I needed an umbrella as no lord could walk around town without one. Also, I get the feeling Monica doesn’t like my hat and scarf combo. She made me buy a new colourful scarf. Alas, and much to Roberto’s dismay, she wouldn’t allow me to buy the Juventus hat to go with it.

Outside the Campanile.

S.S. Fontanafredda v Palmanova

Seeing that Iberia had wrecked our plans for the Saturday in Venice, we would not venture around Venice until Monday. Today was all about football. Cipo’s new team were in action in the Campianato di Eccellenza, the Italian equivalent of the Conference league. His new team is S.S. Fontanafredda, which is based in the Friuli region, near the mountains. The English translation for the town is Cold Fountain so I wasn’t surprised to be told to wrap up well.


Outside the ground.


Cipo during the warm-up.

The views from the stand were beautiful. The snow-capped mountains were glistening in the sun. The ground at Fontanafredda is quite nice too. An impressive designed stand on one side of the pitch looks good but Roberto tells me it isn’t very practical in a storm. He had to hide out under a disabled access viewing point to escape the downpour on one occasion.

Stylish stand.

The teams came out and Fontanafredda needed to win this one. Palmanova were rock bottom with only 8 points from 12 games. Fontanafredda were on 11 points having played the same number of games and only four places above. Occupying one of the relegation play-off places.

The game started and it was a disastrous start for the home side. Inside the first 3 minutes and the first strike at goal resulted in Palmanova taking the lead. Dreadful defending with the Fontanafredda centre-half gifting possession to the opposition striker in the final third. He moved into the box unopposed and left Cipo with no chance with a superb shot into the bottom left hand corner.


Ready for Kick-off.

After the initial shock Fontanafredda regained their composure and started to dominate. A number of half chances failed to make the breakthrough until the half-hour mark. In the freezing cold stadium it seemed fitting that the goal was a good old-fashioned English tactic, Stoke City to be precise. A long throw in was flicked on at the near post for the striker to pounce and poke the ball into the corner.

Half time and the scores are level. Time to head to the canteen for a Vin Brule to warm ourselves. Spirits were high, as it seemed that it was only a matter of time before Fontanafredda took the lead. The second half was a bit of a let down. Within 10 minutes of the restart, Palmanova were reduced to 10 men. There right winger received a second yellow card for obstructing the taking of a throw-in. Palmanova then put every remaining body behind the ball and Fontanafredda could not break them down. Cipo’s afternoons work was virtual finished with the sending off. The game ended 1-1. Perhaps it would have been a different story if it were 11 v 11 until the end.


Monica and Antonella waiting for Vin Brule.

Iberia Rant 2

Awake at 6:45am after a good 3 and a half-hours kip. Sleepwalk down to the breakfast room for a cup of dishwash coffee and stale bread. The coaches arrived on schedule to take us back to Barajas at 7:30am. Maybe the coach company should take over Iberia airlines?

Another queue to join, as we have to go through the security checks again. Alarming news on the flight information screens. Our flight was listed first “20:00 Venice. Scheduled to depart at 19:40”. Surely some mistake but with it being Iberia, nobody was taking any chances so another massive queue had formed at the Iberia Information Point. As we queued I took another look at the monitors to see that another flight with the same code had been scheduled for a 9:50am departure. No other information was offered. We soon found out after more screaming that the flight had been delayed until 10:57am.


19:50! Would we ever get to Venice.

The mood amongst the passengers was ugly. It seemed that a riot would erupt at any moment. It seemed that Iberia staff had the same feeling. The shutters were down around the information centre, leaving only one side open. The attitude amongst the few Iberia staff hadn’t improved either. Their response to the continuous questions being asked of them was to phone the Guardia Civil. Soon there were more security guards and Guardia officers than Iberia staff.


Another crowd of passengers for Iberia to ignore.

At 10:00am the gate was announced for our flight, H3. This is the furthest gate possible from the information centre. It is also next door to a “Guardia Civil” control point, where a few guards were already stationed. A “Comet Air” plane is standing at the gate and some activity is seen in the cockpit and on the ground. Two Iberia staff arrived at the gate and once again a large queue formed ready for boarding.

10:36am and no sign of the boarding process starting yet. Tempers fray and the crowd start shouting at the Iberia staff again. More Guardia Civil staff appears. Looks like more bad news is going to be announced. A few minutes later and bags are seen being taken off the plane. The mood isn’t improved when the gate screen changes the departure time to 11:10am. Its now 10:50am and its clear to everyone in the queue that we weren’t leaving at that time.


Bags being unloaded from plane.

More shouting and an announcement was made by a Guardia Civil officer. Anyone in an agitated state will not be allowed to fly. This prompted loud shouts of derision and made matters much more heated. The Guardia officer decided it would be better not to repeat his announcement. An hour later and we finally started to board the plane. The assigned seats on our boarding cards were useless and it was a free for all. We managed to find two vacant seats at the back of the plane.

12:15pm and all the passengers are on board. The captain announces that a couple of passengers had failed to arrive at the gate so there baggage was being located and removed from the flight. Then we would be off on our 2-hour flight to Venice. 12:30pm and the cabin crew close the doors. 1pm and we are still on the ground. Passengers were getting restless and we demanded more information. None was forthcoming. Finally, the plane began to taxi to the runway at 1:15pm.

We landed at 3:15pm at Marco Polo airport. We had the lost the day but would soon be in Venice for a late lunch. Iberia still had another nasty little surprise for us. Our bags were not on the belt. Another queue at the lost and found desk formed. We were told to check the next flight arriving from Madrid. The next flight arrived at 3:45pm and still no sign of the bags. The queue grew bigger as passengers from the latest flight also had not received their bags. Finally, our bags were located in a backroom of the airport at 5pm. No explanation on how they got there or why they hadn’t been put on the belt. Monica swore that this would be the last time we flew with Iberia. We have to get back to Málaga with them first. A trip we both weren’t looking forward to.

Lost and Found. Great another bloody queue!